Meatless meals needn’t be too penitential.
Meatless meals needn’t be too penitential.
T wo weeks into Lent, I was standing at the kitchen sink watching my good intentions and best-laid plans clog up the drain. It was a rather trying day, but nothing makes a better food column than a kitchen disaster — and this recipe fit the bill.
A few years ago, my family decided to try Whole30, and even though I was living in New York City at the time, I joined them in the endeavor. Though I did make it through the month, the way was strewn with dry meatballs, lumpy cauliflower “mashed potatoes,” and coconut milk. I even managed to ruin blueberry muffins baked for NR’s beloved editor in a mortifying incident he’ll never let me live down. Since then, I’ve learned a thing or two, and while I don’t regularly eat a Whole30 diet (dairy and I are much too chummy for that), some of my favorite dishes have their basis in it. In January this year, however, I revisited Whole30 and then planned to continue it through Lent.
January went swimmingly. Lent? Not so much.
As part of my penance this year (for Lent, Catholics focus on prayer, fasting, and almsgiving), I decided to go meatless on Wednesdays as well as Fridays. Kudos to my Orthodox brethren — they basically go vegan for Lent, and I have the utmost respect for them. I, however, have only managed two meatless days per week . . . until last week, when I accidentally planned all my meals without substantial protein.
The menu for the week ran as follows:
Breakfast: Eggs and toast
Lunch: Carrot, apple, and ginger soup
Dinner: Polenta with tomatoes and mushrooms
Breakfast was a breeze — easy to toss together and eat while proofing Stuttaford Corner posts and editing Great Books episodes. Dinner was also fun, as I’d never made or eaten polenta before. I’d been forewarned about grit and lumps, so I was prepared, and all went well. What didn’t go well? That dratted carrot, apple, and ginger soup.
What possessed me to combine such ingredients? A recipe from a trusted source started the adventure. But I also had fresh ginger in my fridge that I wanted to use — waste not, want not and all that. So after boiling together chicken stock, onions, baby carrots, Granny Smith apples, and ginger for a long time, I put my new mini food processor to the test and pureed the lot. The smell should’ve been a warning to me, but it was masked slightly by the homemade croutons I was toasting on the neighboring burner. Dishing some up, I stirred in a bit of heavy cream (per the recipe), sprinkled the croutons on top, and dug in.
Oh dear.
First, it was chunky in the most unpleasant way. Second, the overly bright taste of hot baby carrot consumed my whole palate and was made worse by the combination of ginger and apple. I made it through half a bowl, and then gave up. The next day was worse — I only managed to eat the croutons off the top. Broadcasting my woes on our family group chat brought little comfort: My brother reminded me that Lent was penitential for a reason.
Tuesday dragged on as I stewed in front of my computer over my inedible soup. Finally, unable to stand it any longer, I dashed to the kitchen and began pouring the entire pot down the drain. Apples and cheese for me, I decided — and I even mixed up a batch of soft pretzels. These are a very traditional (so I’m told) Lenten food, and it seemed an appropriate pairing with fruit and dairy. America’s Test Kitchen has a wonderful pretzel recipe that I’ve used numerous times, and I appreciate how quickly and simply the dough comes together. The recipe also doesn’t require a lye bath (which more traditional recipes call for), and a quick dip in a boiling baking-soda solution is all it takes to ensure a mahogany crust.
Happy as those pretzels made me, Wednesday morning rolled around, and I had another inspiration: sweet-potato gnocchi. Italian grandmothers everywhere, please cover your ears, but this dish is delicious. Made the regular way, with ricotta and all-purpose flour, it comes out pillowy and decadent. It can also be made with gluten-free flour, but if you don’t want a chewy pasta, use the America’s Test Kitchen blend. Finally, if you’re on a strict food budget, you can use cream cheese instead of ricotta — though the gnocchi dough will be significantly stickier.
Few things are as satisfying as mixing up this quick dough, rolling it into long snakes, and chopping it into bite-sized pieces with your bench scraper (which, alongside my immersion blender, is my favorite kitchen tool). Since it comes together so quickly, I had a pot of water already boiling and a pan with butter melting in it, perfect for crisping up the cooked pasta. Add some heavy cream, some diced ham — which one should always have on hand in the freezer — and some peas, and you have a lunch that hits all the food groups.
Delicious.
I learned my lesson, though, and this week, meat is back (for three days) on the menu. Praise the Lord.